A progress capture device of some sort is a key bit of kit with many uses from self rescue, simul climbing, and even way easier belaying while your partner boinks  (if you know you know). This lives on my harness whenever I don’t want the weight of an ascender+pulley. 

Lightweight 8mm dyneema slings are perfect for your alpine draws. They are durable, take up minimal space, and weigh nothing. For trad climbing, I carry 6-8 60cm slings as shoulder slings with only one carabiner on each. Then if I’m expecting to place nuts, I’ll have 2-6 on the harness as alpine draws. If it’s a wandery alpine route, I’ll bring 2-4 120cm slings as alpine draws. Lastly 1-2 240cm slings for gear anchors.

I’ve tested a lot of crack gloves, and these have been my absolute favorite for the majority of crack sizes and have helped me send 5.13 offwidth. They are durable, have great padding, and are very “sticky.” I find they work in all sizes of cracks, but some may choose a thin layer of tape or the Crack Gloves Lite instead with tight hands. These are beast!

These are the solution for tight hands or less crystally or abrasive rock. They have less padding than the Crack Gloves Pro and more sensitivity. 

It may be designed for big wall, but this harness feels just as light and comfortable to climb in as so many other harnesses out there. The difference is when you’re hanging in the harness… it’s incomparable to a standard harness. It’s not just for big wall and route development. I bring this harness every day I go cragging for comfortable belaying and projecting. If it’s a redpoint day, I also bring a “send harness” in addition.

I’m a huge fan of color coordinating my equipment so I can spot it quickly. Haul bag gets red. Personal clove hitch gets blue. Water gets green. This three pack has all three.

I always bring my Panic draw anytime I’m expecting to dog my way up a hard sport climb. Ever find yourself stressing to make those last few moves to a bolt or find bolts placed just out of your reach? That’s where the Panic comes in. Leading with a stick clip is dangerous (impaling risk). The Panic is stiff enough to make the clip, but soft enough to keep you safe. Get the 45cm length.

This is the book that took me 9 full hardworking years to create. This book unveils so many new spots  as well as so many new routes in old classic locations. Come to the coast to dodge the heat!

These are the gold standard! The new version is even lighter than before also. Now they even have a #7 and #8 for the wide cracks.

Offset cams can be a lifesaver, literally. I love these since .3/.4 and larger are double axle and have a great range. Once you start carrying offsets, placements seem to show up all over the place, unless you’re in Indian Creek.

These sit alongside the BD C4 cams, but are slightly more niche. They fit in tricky spots that other cams won’t, but they have a few downsides; they are a bit bulky on the harness, the lack of thumb loop can take some getting used to, they can get gummed up easily in the desert, and they are very expensive. I think they are best to bring along side the C4s when you know there will be tricky gear placements.

The first three sizes are my favorite small cams. They are flexible like the original Aliens but have much narrower heads, which allow them to slide into tricky positions.

The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the gold standard for aluminum offsets. These nuts seem to fit everywhere, and hold shockingly well in outward flaring cracks. There are no other pieces of passive protection that we'd feel as comfortable whipping on as these. Their high holding power can be a curse sometimes; they love to get stuck in cracks. They only come in 5 sizes, so only having a set of offsets may not be enough passive gear for your whole rack.

These are the best offset micro-nuts. In many places, the offsets are more useful than non-offset. They weigh nothing, so they’re great to bring along.

Anytime nuts are needed, I bring a set of these along with a half set of standard nets. More often than not I find myself placing these. 

These are my new alternative to the iconic DMM Alpha Sport, which now run around $50 each. These are easy to clip, surprisingly lightweight, have a huge dogbone for dogging, and come in red and blue.

This hook has the most versatility, so I’ve largely stopped bringing my Cliffhanger or Talon Hooks. I use this while bolting on lead or for stability or access while scoping/cleaning lines with a rope above me. When hanging on a fixed line, trying to hold tight to the wall, you can even use this as a cam hook in medium cracks or even pockets.

These are my new secret weapon for route development on overhung or difficult to access terrain. I use them as temporary bolts while developing a line. When I’m done, I can easily pull them out and reuse them (depending on the density of the stone, sometimes many times). The hole can then be drilled to the next size up and a permanent bolt installed. If the placement ended up being unneeded, the 1/4” holes very easy to patch. I buy the plated steel ones because they are only in place briefly, and the cutting threads will wear out with reuse before they rust, unless you’re on the coast. In soft rock, I use 3/8” x 4” screws.

For desert climbing, the Powers 5-piece sleeve bolts have been the standard, but prices have gone up and they’re becoming hard to find. We’ve been lacking an alternative for years, but these came in for the win!

These are my go-to glue-ins for most applications. They have a really easy interference fit, meaning you can place them in overhangs without fear of them sliding out while the glue cures. They come in SS or Titanium.

These have recently become my go-to for roofs. I choose these for roofs because the round eye allows the draw to hang nicely (better than the flat edge of the Arrow). These can be placed with an interference fit so that they are tapped into place with a rubber mallet, but it requires much more care and attention while drilling the hole than the Arrow Bolts. In short: If you want to be fancy and have the skills, use these in roofs. They are 12mm, so if you mess up the hole, you can bore it up to 14mm and just place an Arrow bolt instead.