Prusik, Auto Blocks, and Klemheist Break Tests


The rule supposedly is that you want a friction hitch to be 3mm smaller than the diameter of rope you are trying to grab and to use 3 wraps. We did a bunch of tests and here are the numbers:


4MM PARACORD:

*Prusik 3.74kN

*Klemheist 3.34kN

*Auto Block 3 wraps - slips at 1.34kN, 4 wraps - slips at 5.32kn

*Paracord doubled twice 8.90kN

*Paracord in a loop 4.06kN


5MM ACCESSORY CORD:

*Prusik 8.16kN and 5.36kn

*Klemheist 7kN-ish Slips and locked off and broke at 11.62kN

*Auto Block: 3 wraps - 0.36kN Slips / 4 wraps - 3.62kn Slips


7MM ACCESSORY CORD:

*Prusik 7.9kN and 5.18kN

*Klemheist 3.3kN Slips

*Auto Block: 4 wraps - 0.8kN Slips HOLLOW BLOCK 14KN MBS:

*Prusik 5.84kn

*Auto Block: 3 wraps - 0.42kN Slips / 4 wraps - 1.38kn Slips


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Breaking Gear Fear

Edutainment has been a great way to help people understand their gear, and know the true limitations of it.  Watching HOW gear fails is more important than the force itself, as almost all gear is super good enough.  It's more important to share information on how to stay safe than it is to have a paywall.  We hope our stoke is contagious.