Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC guide break tests - how strong is that eye?


Bogdan Cardoş asked Petzl how strong the metal eye was on the atc guide since it is a single point of failure. They replied with "There is no standard requirement to communicate and breaking strength of the attachment point. The product has been designed to be used as described in the technical instruction. It is certified according to the EN standards so we don't have to communicate the breaking strength of the Reverso. Thank you for your TRUST"


Petzl is right, they don't have to tell you and it is probably super good enough, but trust? Trust is overrated, so I took my personal Petzl Reverso 4 and pulled it to destruction. Also, because we had them, we tested the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the smaller Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide.


Our results:

NOTE: The 10.0mm static BD rope used in the following tests breaks in a figure 8 at at 17kn ►PETZL REVERSO 4 (https://amzn.to/3kzl4hW)

*Normal belay mode: slips while holding tail at 2kn and 2.5kn

*Normal belay mode: breaks rope at 10.64kn with tail at 3.12kn

*Double rope "rappel": breaks ropes at 19.59kn with tail at 6.49kn

*Wire breaks at 7.62kn *Guide eye breaks at 12.41

►BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE (https://amzn.to/3ze9D3i)

*In guide mode, rope slips at 5.5kn and 6.94kn

*In normal belay mode, slips at 2.44kn and breaks at 9.45kn

*Wire came out at 6.65kn

*Eye broke at 29.07kn

►BLACK DIAMOND ATC ALPINE GUIDE (https://amzn.to/2V0PwH2) *Eye broke at 30.11kn


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Breaking Gear Fear

Edutainment has been a great way to help people understand their gear, and know the true limitations of it.  Watching HOW gear fails is more important than the force itself, as almost all gear is super good enough.  It's more important to share information on how to stay safe than it is to have a paywall.  We hope our stoke is contagious.