If bolts are damaged or there are mistakes or in order to leave less trace, it can be nice to bury an old hole under the P of a new glue in you are installing. We tested in this video if "too much epoxy" was bad. The recommendation is just to use only a small amount. It is better to use the right size hole as it saves a ton of glue but we wanted to know if it was super good enough if you didn't.
Spoiler Alert: Our tests showed it was fine.
All tests were done with Liquid Roc 500
Fixe Hely Tension (3/8" bolt in a 5/8" hole)
29.86kn, 30.30kn, 28.10kn - all bolts snapped
Fixe hely Shear (3/8" bolt in a 5/8" hole)
31.68kn, 30.36kn, 33.82kn - all bolts snapped
Double holes with 10mm Solid Leg from Bolt Products
52.38kn, 47.50kn, 50.86kn
For reference, carabiners break around 22kn.
The original tests of this method are included in this forum post. Thanks Jim Titt. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum...
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