Is too much epoxy bad for climbing glue in bolts? A trick to fix bashed Bolts


If bolts are damaged or there are mistakes or in order to leave less trace, it can be nice to bury an old hole under the P of a new glue in you are installing. We tested in this video if "too much epoxy" was bad. The recommendation is just to use only a small amount. It is better to use the right size hole as it saves a ton of glue but we wanted to know if it was super good enough if you didn't.


Spoiler Alert: Our tests showed it was fine.

All tests were done with Liquid Roc 500

Fixe Hely Tension (3/8" bolt in a 5/8" hole)

29.86kn, 30.30kn, 28.10kn - all bolts snapped

Fixe hely Shear (3/8" bolt in a 5/8" hole)

31.68kn, 30.36kn, 33.82kn - all bolts snapped

Double holes with 10mm Solid Leg from Bolt Products

52.38kn, 47.50kn, 50.86kn

For reference, carabiners break around 22kn.


The original tests of this method are included in this forum post. Thanks Jim Titt. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum...


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Breaking Gear Fear

Edutainment has been a great way to help people understand their gear, and know the true limitations of it.  Watching HOW gear fails is more important than the force itself, as almost all gear is super good enough.  It's more important to share information on how to stay safe than it is to have a paywall.  We hope our stoke is contagious.