Climbing Sling Myths


The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. So we tested it.


BD 18mm nylon slings were 22kn MBS found at https://amzn.to/3eHXAUt

Straight (broke 30%+ above MBS or the same as the chart)

Test 1: 29.02kn

Test 2: 27.62kn

Doubled (should get around 56kn)

Test 3: 53.58kn

Test 4:52.26kn

Wrapped 3x (should get around 56kn)

Test 5: 43.90kn

Test 6: 47.76kn

Doubled Twice (should get around 112kn)

Test 7: 78.72kn

Test 8: 82.82kn

Girth Hitch (should get 50% or 14kn)

Test 9: 25.22kn

Test 10: 23.48kn


Girth hitch with a 22kn MBS dyneema sling 15.48kn

Girth hitch nylon sling directly on hanger 9.50kn


➜Reddit Thread https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/com...

➜103kn dyneema sling test https://youtu.be/she8vH1DCBU?t=953

➜Climbing gym falls episode https://youtu.be/m8z6adEqaOs

➜Mammut Dyneema Climbing Slings https://youtu.be/NwbMfh4FqT4

➜Are climbing master points made with a girth hitch or clove hitch REDUNDANT??? https://youtu.be/-MmX8h4F0po

➜Monty Python Reference https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW...


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Breaking Gear Fear

Edutainment has been a great way to help people understand their gear, and know the true limitations of it.  Watching HOW gear fails is more important than the force itself, as almost all gear is super good enough.  It's more important to share information on how to stay safe than it is to have a paywall.  We hope our stoke is contagious.