How much force is on the climber, the belayer and the bolt when you whip at the gym? 2 years ago we did some tests at the gym and it was really popular, but people said our hertz, or rate in which the load cell reads was too slow to pick up the peak force. So we literally helped create the LineScale3 which is the only load cell to record internally and reads at 1280hz as opposed to 40hz. I sold @HardisEasy some of my LS3s and he did some tests at a climbing gym with Mr LineScale3 himself (Andy Reidrich). Below is all his data that he collected for the video that he made about it found at https://youtu.be/uoDN6SQog9g. His video only included the force on the climber but we went through all his data and organized it to compare the force on the belayer and the quickdraw. The spreadsheet includes the data from our two videos. Get a $20 off coupon for the LS3 on our GEAR page.
Our first episode testing forces in the gym was either well timed with everyone getting locked down or actually intriguing to a lot of people. It was one of the few videos
Thank you Celine Gissot for the bar chart. Thank you Rocco Fucetola for the graphing software.
Michal Studniarek sent me this PDF and explained how rope stretch plays a big role in the difference between A+B. Check it out!
This was developed because of our first video. We helped design it with LineGrip INC to be faster, stronger and smarter than any all in one load cell on the market. After 18 months of development, they are now in stock and you can buy them. We have a $20 coupon code on our GEAR PAGE
All 13 of Hard is Easy's Tests
Behind the Scenes
Besides designing the LS3 specifically for this test, collaborations take a lot of work and so does processing this much data for just 1 of 8 videos in a month. But it was totally worth it because this turned out really well having someone else do the tests and find out the numbers check out. At the time of Hard is Easy filming this, the LS3s were not available for purchase yet, but I intentionally invested in more than I needed so I could get them to people doing rad tests sooner. Ben bought two and it worked out that Andy Riedrich who made them was able to join in on the video. A total full circle. However, Ben only shared the force on the climber and I wanted to know all the forces so he sent me all the raw CSV files and I had some python program Rocco, a slackliner, wrote for this project and we were able to get these graphs and pull the peak forces off all the data points. This took about a day to process it to line up the 3 LS3 units. When I first got my LS3s, I went out and whipped for science but didn't have enough for an entire episode. Once Ben made his, it felt worth putting all the data together to make this episode.
I also was experimenting with different backdrops since I don't live near my lab anymore and only visit to break stuff. Shooting off my balcony with my new fancy camera ended up making my face dark and to compensate we had to blow out the background which was good to not see where I am, but turned out to not be ideal. You can see the evolution of my narrative backgrounds throughout the months/years.
After Posting Thoughts
I was talking about what resting force to preset your LS3 at and I said "put it at 1kN because ideally no one is going to weigh more than that." OMG, apparently I offended a whole bunch of people who weigh more than 225lbs. I didn't think it was ideal to be taking big whippers if you weighed a lot. When someone reached out to me to say they like my work but don't like what I said, I asked him if he would whip for science. He was, and he got support from his climbing gym so I mailed him 3 LS3s and Tanner took some gnarly whippers for science and you can see that in this next episode.