Climbing harnesses vs beal dynaloops - what breaks first?


Alex Sardo donated Dynaloops from Beal Climbing (https://amzn.to/39RfxwZ

rated for 22kn. Bobby Hutton tested these as personal anchors, attached to a harness directly attached to both hard points and the belay loop (donated by Joshua McElderry).


TEST 1: Dynaloop attached to the hard points on 15 year old-ish Petzl Corax harness (https://amzn.to/3dEhAp6) - harness broke at 21.16kn

TEST 2: Same dynaloop attached to 15 year old-ish Petzl Corax belay loop - belay loop broke at 12.48kn

TEST 3: Dynaloop attached to the hard points on Black Diamond Alpine BOD harness (https://amzn.to/3uxl5nZ) that is 15-20 years old - dynaloop broke at 20.00kn (same one we have been abusing)

TEST 4: Repeated last test (BOD's two hard points) with a fresh dynaloop - the dynaloop broke at 22.94kn

TEST 5: Fresh dynaloop on the BOD belay loop - Belay loop broke at 16.34kn (4kn higher than MBS!)

TEST 6: Dynaloop from test 5 vs same BOD's two hard points - dynaloop lost again at 21.76kn TEST 7: Doubled up dynaloop put in a sliding x (should give 4x strength as a dyneema sling rated for 22kn in same configuration broke at 103kn or over 4x MBS) broke at 42kn

TEST 8: Dynaloop pulled straight in slacksnap - broke at 21.04kn

TEST 9: Dynaloop doubled up in slacksnap - broke at 47:08kn


Climbing manufactures recommend you retire harnesses after 10 years if you used them or not. We have found UV light to be damaging to harness and ropes and not age alone. That is NOT a recommendation to use an old harness but a worthy conversation starter to minimize unnecessary trash on our planet. I was on the big wall Todd Skinner was climbing a few days before his harness belay loop failed from excessive use so having a bomber harness is important. However, just like oil changes use to be recommended at every 3,000 miles but is now 5,000 miles, do ropes and harnesses need to be retired from age alone??? You still need to retire ropes and harness just like you still need to change your oil in a car, but the harnesses we have tested in this video and others have tested well. This is NOT advice. This is for entertainment purposes only!


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Breaking Gear Fear

Edutainment has been a great way to help people understand their gear, and know the true limitations of it.  Watching HOW gear fails is more important than the force itself, as almost all gear is super good enough.  It's more important to share information on how to stay safe than it is to have a paywall.  We hope our stoke is contagious.