Climbing anchor shock loads are a myth - human testing in Yosemite


If one bolt or cam fails on a sliding X, does the shock load create enough force to be dangerous. Many put limiter knots half way up the slings on both sides in order to limit the shock load but that reduces the strength of your sling significantly. So I use my body to see what it feels like when shock loading a Mammut dyneema climbing sling (https://amzn.to/2VjXkRC). Filmed with Bobby Hutton, Russell Travis (https://facebook.com/AlpenglowGearCo), Robbee Pitts in January 2020.


Chart of test is at 12:01


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Breaking Gear Fear

Edutainment has been a great way to help people understand their gear, and know the true limitations of it.  Watching HOW gear fails is more important than the force itself, as almost all gear is super good enough.  It's more important to share information on how to stay safe than it is to have a paywall.  We hope our stoke is contagious.