Are Dewalt Powers SD6 Bolts Safe for climbing? Spec sheet says 12kn in shear???


We tested 3/8" SD6 plus bolts from Dewalt. Greg Barnes from the ASCA and Matt Markell sent them to use and said they the specs on the website weren't that high so tested them. See the tech spec sheet at http://anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/_do... and on page 3 it says the shear on 3/8" bolts are 12kn. So are they safe???


Thank you Bobby Hutton and Mike Rogers (@wolf_in_the_weeds) for destroying things for science with me.


In tension they were quite low at 24.20kn, 13.72kn, 12.92kn. They came out possibly because the rock was bad (other tests were fine) or because the knurl at the bottom doesn't work that well.


In Shear they were super good enough at 40.90kn (came out), 35.52kn (snapped) and 41.66kn (hanger failed). WHY DID WE GET 3X OR MORE THAN THE SPEC SHEET???


The bonus test (at the end) of a 1/2" sleeve bolt with a 3/8" stud down the middle of the sleeve broke in shear at 30.34kn. Bigger isn't always better!


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Breaking Gear Fear

Edutainment has been a great way to help people understand their gear, and know the true limitations of it.  Watching HOW gear fails is more important than the force itself, as almost all gear is super good enough.  It's more important to share information on how to stay safe than it is to have a paywall.  We hope our stoke is contagious.